Many taquerias in San Antonio are houses that were modified into restaurants. Lydia’s Taco House, located on the East Side’s main commercial artery of W.W. White Road, however, actually feels domestic. It’s the kind of place you can shoot the breeze with a close friend over tacos and coffee and feel contented. A true mom and pop place.
So, I loved the vibe there. I also dug the texture of its homemade tortillas. These are the kinds of fluffy and thick flour tortillas I’ve been waiting for on this Tacoist trek across the city. These are the tortillas that reminded me of the tortillas made by my Abuelita Olivo growing up — in terms of their shape. I’m not saying these are the greatest tortillas of all time, but they will get a mention next time someone asks me for flour tortilla recommendations.
Inside one of those tortillas is a damn good, and Tex-Mex-ed up, chilaquiles. It’s a well-balanced taco with slightly crunchy chips and just enough cheese. And hot. The peppers and onions seemed freshly cooked along with the egg. All of the ingredients cozied up nicely in one of those thick tortillas.
The rest of the tacos were about what you’d expect from a good taqueria.
The papas rancheras were well-seasoned with big potatoes, but could have used more sauce. The chorizo and egg seemed fresh with the egg and chorizo mixed together perfectly — more egg than chorizo flavor. The carne guisada was tender and non-fatty but was in desperate need of more salt and stew. The potato and egg your standard S.A. potato and egg, the egg freshly cooked with blandish potatoes. That’s not a slight on the taco; that’s just the way they’re made in like 98 percent of Alamo City taquerias. The bean and cheese about your standard bean and cheese.
And $5.87 for those six tacos. That’s right: Between 5:30 a.m. and 10 a.m., 12 of the tacos on Lydia’s menu are sold for 79 cents. Makes the place’s vibe that much more homely.
Lydia’s Taco House, 536 S. W.W. White Road, (210) 628-1133
— Worth traveling across town for
— Average S.A. taqueria. Some hits, some misses
— Mostly misses
— Benjamin Olivo
What do you think? Is there a taco I should have ordered, but didn’t? Have any taco news, issues or concerns? Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.