Here’s a place whose breakfast tacos are more Mex than Tex-Mex. At Las Sabrosas de Guanajuato on San Pedro Avenue, named after the state in central Mexico, the signature breakfast dish are the chilaquiles — except here they are eggless.
Most taquerias in San Antonio serve chilaquiles as a combo of migas and egg a la Mexicana with that nuclear yellow cheese. Here, chilaquiles is corn chips in a salsa covered with white queso — and that’s it. And that’s all it needs to be, because the taco is delicious.
The chilaquiles are usually served on a plate, but you can request them in a taco. It’s essentially a tortilla chip taco in a salsa verde (you can also order with the red salsa) that is tangy roasted tomatillo in its purest form. The chips are incredibly crunchy and seem made in-house. The white cheese adds that extra layer of flavor and complements well the salsa.
Turns out Las Sabrosas, by not sticking with the typical Tex-Mex offerings, is full of surprises. On a lunch menu board, they offered a plate with pasilla chile as the main ingredient. I mean, there is birria (stewed goat) on the taco menu.
Before I describe the other tacos I ate, I must mention in as much detail the house salsa.
All I can say is that the salsa is magic, baby. Usually, when describing how something tastes, I take an educated guess because I’m still developing my palate. This hot sauce might be the most complicated thing I’ve tasted as The Tacoist so I’ll throw a few darts at it. The sauce’s base color is orange, so I assume there’s a healthy dose of habanero. It also has good flavor and bites like a mother — sticking with the habanero theme. But there’s more: This is possibly a blend of dried peppers, as well, judging from the red flakes. Definitely vinegar. Possibly citrus, like orange, squeezed in. Definitely cilantro given the green herbal flakes.
This hot sauce will go good with anything. I mean, any of the tacos at Las Sabrosas, any kind of beef, chicken, fish, tofu, Spam, whatever.
The other tacos were respectable to really good.
The bean and cheese is your typical San Antonio bean and cheese with homemade beans and yellow cheese. The migas had the same brilliant crunch of the chilaquiles; they were a bit dry, but enter that magical sauce and, no problem. The carne guisada was fork tender and a perfect blend of meat and stew. The papas in the papa chorizo were mushy, but the chorizo had good flavor. And they were all served on tortillas — flour and corn — that were very, very good.
This place is definitely worth the trip if you’re looking to shake up your taco routine. Indeed, it’s very Mexican. Portraits of Pedro Infante hang on the walls as do portraits of countryside haciendas presumably in Guanajuato.
Las Sabrosas de Guanajuato, 6825 San Pedro Ave., (210) 785-9211
— Worth traveling across town for
— Average S.A. taqueria. Some hits, some misses
— Mostly misses
— Benjamin Olivo
What do you think? Is there a taco I should have ordered, but didn’t? Have any taco news, issues or concerns? Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.