In the end, the pierna saved the day.
Pierna, or the leg of the pig, is a taco that’s foreign to me. It’s not a cut of meat I’m used to seeing on menus in San Antonio. And a recent visit to Agave Grill on Broadway would have yielded a thumbs down from me if it weren’t for this taco.
The meat was shredded like barbacoa and a little dry like machacado. It was crispy from the cooking process and had an excellent pork flavor. Well seasoned. I loved the addition of onions and peppers. Not fatty or greasy. All in a big fluffy tortilla. This is one of those tacos that requires some of the house salsa — not to add flavor but to add moisture.
The rest of the menu is pretty standard for San Antonio breakfast tacos.
The chilaquiles was disappointing. Maybe it’s just not what I’m used to. The red tortilla strips were semi crispy. The cheese was white. And it had a bold onion flavor. However, the egg was an afterthought. This was almost like a traditional chilaquiles, which is chips and cheese and salsa. The flavors were there — this wasn’t a bad taco — but disproportioned for my taste.
I was not a big fan of the bean and cheese. I couldn’t get a good read on the beans.
The carne in the carne guisada was well-seasoned and soft and tender. But the stew lacked that certain depth that is necessary for a proper braised dish. This carne guisada was cooked in some kind of pepper given the redness of the sauce. Guajillo, I’d guess. Try the house green hot sauce with this one.
Everything else was about average. The tortillas. The red and green salsa. Blah! Get me out of this report!
Agave Grill, 9307 Broadway, (210) 824-0777
— Worth traveling across town for
— Average S.A. taqueria. Some hits, some misses
— Mostly misses
— Benjamin Olivo
What do you think? Is there a taco I should have ordered, but didn’t? Have any taco news, issues or concerns? Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.